Shallots are the cook's onion — milder, sweeter and more refined than ordinary bulb onions, the secret behind great vinaigrettes, sauces and roasts. And they are almost absurdly easy to grow: push a small set into the soil in March, largely ignore it all spring, and dig up a cluster of six to ten shallots in July. Each single set multiplies underground like quiet magic.
Shallots are also the perfect beginner allium — easier than onions from seed (no windowsill sowings, no thinning, no leggy seedlings) and more forgiving than onion sets in a wet spring. This guide covers choosing good sets, planting in March, the hands-off summer, lifting when the foliage yellows, and drying and storing so they keep for months. Written for Central and Western Europe, no experience assumed.
| Care point | What shallots need |
|---|---|
| Sun | Full sun — an open site |
| Water | Moderate; keep moist in spring, dry off as foliage yellows |
| Soil & pH | Well-drained, not too rich; pH 6.0–7.0 |
| Plant sets (Central Europe) | March (or October–November for autumn planting) |
| Spacing | 15 cm apart, rows 25–30 cm apart |
| Days to harvest | 100–120 days; lift in July |
| Difficulty | Very easy — one of the simplest crops |
Step 1: Buy good sets — not supermarket shallots
Shallots grow from sets — small dormant bulbs sold in nets at garden centres in late winter. Choose firm, dry sets with no mould or soft spots, and buy them from a garden supplier rather than planting supermarket shallots, which can carry disease into your soil. Good beginner varieties: 'Longor' (classic French type, reliable), 'Red Sun' (rosy skin, mild), or 'Jermor' (long, banana-shaped).
One net of sets plants a generous row, and each set becomes a cluster — so a little goes a long way. Store the sets somewhere cool and dry until planting time in March; do not let them sit in a warm room, or they sprout in the net.
Step 2: Prepare a well-drained bed — lean soil is fine
Shallots hate wet feet: in waterlogged soil the sets rot instead of growing. Choose a sunny, open spot with good drainage — and if your soil is heavy clay, plant on a low ridge or in a raised bed so water drains away from the bulbs. See our soil basics guide if you are unsure what you are working with.
Unlike most vegetables, shallots prefer lean soil: too much nitrogen grows lush leaves and small, poor-keeping bulbs. Do not plant them into freshly manured ground — last year's manured bed is perfect. A light dressing of compost is plenty.
Step 3: Plant in March — tips just showing
Plant sets in March, as soon as the soil is workable. Push each set into the soil so just the tip shows above the surface, spaced 15 cm apart with rows 25–30 cm apart. Firm the soil gently around each one — loose sets get pulled out by birds, which find the neat rows irresistible.
If birds are a problem in your garden, cover the row with netting or fleece for the first few weeks until the roots anchor the sets. Our first vegetable garden guide shows how to lay out rows so everything gets its space and sun.
Step 4: Keep them weed-free and watered (a little)
Shallots have shallow roots and hate competition: weed little and often, hoeing carefully on dry days so you do not disturb the developing bulbs. A mulch between the rows suppresses weeds and holds moisture — just keep it clear of the necks of the sets.
Water in dry spells through spring while the bulbs are forming, following the method in our watering guide — then stop watering as the foliage starts to yellow in early summer. Dry conditions at the end help the bulbs ripen and store well; wet finishes cause rot.
Step 5: Leave them alone to multiply
Here is the satisfying part: each planted set divides underground into a cluster of six to ten shallots, pushing apart as they swell. You do not need to do anything — no earthing up like potatoes, no thinning, no feeding. Just let them get on with it.
Resist the urge to poke around checking progress; disturbing the clusters breaks roots and checks growth. The foliage tells you everything: while it stands green and upright, the bulbs are still swelling. When it yellows and flops, they are done.
Step 6: Lift when the foliage yellows — then dry them properly
Harvest in July, when most of the foliage has yellowed and flopped over. Lift on a dry day with a fork, ease the clusters apart gently, and dry them thoroughly — spread in a single layer in a sunny, airy spot (a greenhouse bench or cold frame is ideal) for a week or two until the skins are papery and the necks are fully dry.
Drying is what makes shallots store: damp necks rot in store. Once dry, trim the roots, cut the tops to a few centimetres, and store in nets or trays in a cool, dry, dark, airy place — properly dried shallots keep for six months or more. Save the biggest, healthiest bulbs for replanting, but buy fresh certified sets every few years to avoid disease building up. Like onions, shallots reward good drying with long storage.
Troubleshooting: common shallot problems
Sets pulled out by birds: Replant them firmly and cover the row with netting or fleece until roots anchor them — usually two to three weeks. Planting slightly deeper also helps.
Bulbs rotting in the ground: Too wet — the classic shallot killer. Next year, plant on ridges or in a raised bed, choose the sunniest spot, and stop watering earlier. Compare with our overwatering guide for the warning signs.
White fluffy mould at the base (white rot): A serious allium disease — lift and bin affected bulbs (never compost), and do not grow onions, garlic, leeks or shallots in that spot for several years. Rotation matters: see our first vegetable garden guide for simple rotation planning.
Lots of leaves, tiny bulbs: Soil too rich in nitrogen, or planted too late. Shallots like lean ground — skip the manure — and plant promptly in March so they get the full season.
What to do this October
October is autumn-planting time for shallots: autumn sets planted in October or November establish over winter and crop a few weeks earlier than spring-planted ones. They need a sheltered spot and well-drained soil — in cold, wet areas, spring planting is safer.
Also order spring sets now while the choice is best, and use October to prepare the bed: clear summer crops, weed thoroughly, and let winter weather break the soil down. See the full October checklist for the month's other jobs — and check your stored shallots monthly, using any that soften first.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between shallots and onions?
Shallots grow in clusters from one set, taste milder and sweeter, and have a finer texture that melts into sauces. Onions grow one big bulb per plant and taste stronger. Cooks often prefer shallots; gardeners love how easy they are.
Can I grow shallots from seed?
Yes, but sets are far easier and more reliable for beginners — seed-grown shallots need an early indoor start and a full season of careful growing. Master sets first.
Can I replant shallots from my own harvest?
Yes — save the biggest, healthiest bulbs for replanting. But buy fresh certified disease-free sets every few years, since viruses and white rot build up in home-saved stock.
How long do stored shallots keep?
Six months or more in a cool, dry, dark, airy place — longer than most onions. Check monthly and use any that soften or sprout first; sprouting shallots are still fine to eat.
Related guides
- How to Grow Onions: Autumn Planting Guide — the closest allium cousin
- How to Grow Garlic at Home: Beginner's Guide — another plant-it-and-wait allium
- Garden Soil Basics for Beginners — drainage matters most for bulbs
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